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Learning Silk Shading/Long and Short Stitch/NeedlePainting

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16 July 2008

Learning Silk Shading/Long and Short Stitch/NeedlePainting

I was reading a book a couple of days ago, and noticed something funny. I compared it to my other books.

It's about embroidering the second and consecutive lines in Long and Short stitch.

The first line is staggered to two lengths - that's a given.

"(on the second and consecutive rows) you need to remember to stagger the length of the stitches at both ends"

- "Beginner's Guide to Silk Shading" by Clare Hanham

"Although these stitches (on the second and consecutive rows) are worked in long stitch only, vary their lengths slightly to give a soft uneven line, not a straight one"

- "Redoubte's Finest Flowers in Embroidery" by Trish Burr

- "Beginner's Guide to Goldwork" by Ruth Chamberlain
(I put in the whole paragraph because I couldn't find a single brief statement)

So it looks like those rows can be done in different ways.

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2 Comments:

Blogger coral-seas said...

Hi Megan

In Japanese embroidery there is a version of long and short stitch and there are two ways of working it. Regular, which is similar to Trish's version where the stithes in the second and subsequent rows are a consistent length and Realistic, where the stitches are all of random length which is more like needle painting or silk shading.

There also seem to be different schools of thinking as to wether you should come up through the stitches in the previous row, or between them!

CA

Thursday, July 24, 2008  
Blogger MeganH said...

Thankyou for the comment about Japanese embroidery - that's interesting.

I prefer to pierce the threads of the previous row - I find it gives a smoother appearance, rather than "little bullet holes" where the thread ends co-incide

Friday, July 25, 2008  

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